Peptides: The Secret To Youthful Skin?

Peptides are the latest trend in skincare – walk down any aisle of products and you’ll see them prominently displayed. Peptides, or polypeptides, are short chains of amino acids that naturally occur in the skin, and now they’re being added as an active ingredient to serums, moisturizers, lotions, and creams to give your skin a boost. In general, I’d say I’m wary of evidence-less skincare marketing and I’ll be the first to tell you that not every product and ingredient is worth the hype. But when it comes to peptides, as of now, I’m on board – so if you’re wondering what all the chatter is about, keep reading!

What’s the deal with peptides?

Amino acids are the building blocks of protein, which is an essential part of countless bodily processes, including hormone regulation, immune function, and cell regeneration. Given that peptides are made up of short chain amino acids, it follows that they have benefits, too. 

With regards to the skin, peptides act as messengers to the skin cells – they elicit certain functions from them, including cell repair, and collagen and elastin production. Both collagen and elastin are naturally occurring proteins that decrease in the body as we age, leading to the skin effects we associate with aging – wrinkles, fine lines, sagging skin, dullness, texture changes, and more. So, the rationale behind adding peptides to skincare products is to encourage the skin cells to perform their beneficial functions, all of which contribute to healthier looking skin, regardless of your age and pre-existing level of skin damage. 

What these benefits look like

So what do these benefits look like in practice? What changes can we expect to see in our skin by using peptides? Here’s what peptides can do: 

1. They can reduce visible aging signs

By increasing collagen and elastin production, peptides can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Will they disappear? Probably not, but they’ll soften and blur, and new ones will be slower to form.

2. They provide skin hydration

Peptides are very beneficial for your skin barrier – aka the outer layer of skin that protects you from external threats and regulates the skin’s moisture and water loss. A healthier skin barrier means plumper, softer, and more supple skin. 

3. They can improve skin texture and tone

Peptides also accelerate skin cell regeneration, wound healing, and cell turnover (e.g. the shedding of dead skin cells and development of new cells) meaning they can improve skin texture over time. The same goes for your skin tone – if you’re someone who has scars or dark spots from acne or sun damage, peptides can be a total skin-changer. 

4. They can reduce skin inflammation 

Calling all rosacea and eczema havers – and anyone with sensitive skin that’s prone to redness. Certain peptides have anti-inflammatory properties, which can soothe irritation, calm inflammation, and decrease redness. However, I’d recommend talking to a dermatologist about peptides before adding them to your routine, if you’re someone with a skin condition. 

How to choose the right peptides for your skin

Given how many skincare products exist on the market today, there are a few steps I would recommend taking before you purchase a peptides product. 

First, define your goal and/or concerns. Are you looking to reduce signs of aging? Or combat acne? Dryness? Redness and inflammation? Knowing what you want out of a product is the first step towards making an informed decision (and getting that outcome!). 

Second, research product formulations. If you have your eye on a specific product or brand, do a little research before purchasing. Head to the company’s website and look at the product page – what’s in this product? Look up each ingredient, read the consumer reviews, and determine whether or not the product has a sufficient amount of peptides in it. Generally speaking, you should see peptides as one of the first few ingredients listed in a product – this indicates that the product has a higher concentration of it. 

Third, consider the product type and your skin type. What skincare forms have worked for you in the past – lotions? Serums? Creams? Peptides come in a lot of different skincare mediums now, so whatever tends to agree with your skin is what I’d try first. For me, I know that my skin responds well to serums and I don’t usually have any negative side effects, so when I first tried peptides, I went with a serum. Also, take your skin type into consideration. Someone with naturally oily skin is going to respond differently to a product than someone with dry skin. Depending on your skin type, look for ingredients that align with it – e.g. if you have dry skin, a moisturizing product that also has hydrating ingredients like glycerin and water in it is probably a good choice. 

Finally, try out a few products. If you can get your hands on a sample or travel size, I always recommend doing that before buying any full size product. This way, you can do a patch test and see if your skin has any reaction to it, plus you can determine whether or not you like its other qualities (e.g. texture, scent, viscosity, etc.). Needless to say, if you have any sort of adverse reaction, take the loss and stop using that product. 

So, are peptides the second to youthful skin? Well, they’re not much of a secret now, but the good news is they’re not just another marketing ploy. These active ingredients have well-studied benefits for the skin, and they’re worth trying with the approval of your dermatologist.

Xo,

Renata